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Have you wanted to set up a home worm farm, but been put off by the high cost of purchasing one of the neat “designer label” multi-tiered “vermicomposting” kits, promoted by garden centres and mail order companies? Well, let’s cut through the crap! – ITS ACTUALLY NO SECRET !!! -You may effortlessly make your own DIY three bin kit for a just a few dollars and your worms will be as happy as little pigs in the yellow stuff, with no big bad wolf in sight. Moreover, you don’t need to be an expert handyman to achieve this!
- Hardware stores, supermarkets and camping outlets trade tough, general intent black (opaque) plastic storage containers for a very reasonable price. These are normally tapered so that they may be nested to facilitate stacking on the retailer’s shelves and come with a “snap-fit”ce lid. For your worm farm, you will need three of these tapered containers (but only one lid). For a simple home worm farm I would advise going for 12 gallon (45 litre) containers. Typically, they will be in regards to 15 inches deep (400mm). You may go smaller, if you want.
- In the introductory storage container, drill a 3/8 inch (15mm hole), centrally placed, in the side of the bin, just above the base. Insert a ½ inch (12mm) cheap plastic barrel or irrigation tap (with washers) into your hole and tighten fast with lock nuts – make sure you get a good seal – test by filling the container with tap water. This container is to be the lowest one in your stack and will retain the highly nutritional “worm tea” leachate, that will get started dripping down from the composting bins above. Worm tea is a priceless liquid organic fertilizer, that may be diluted and applied directly on your organic vegetables.
The two upper bins will in truth hold the worms. They are to be identical and are prepared as follows : -
- Drill a pattern of ¼ inch (6mm) holes all over the entire base of each container for drainage and to concede drainage and the upward migration of the compost worms, these holes will have to be regularly spaced at approx two inch (50mm) centres in either direction.
- For aeration, drill two rows of ¼ inch (6mm) holes at two inch (50mm) centres, in a uninterrupted band around each of the bins. This band of holes would be when it comes to four inches (100mm) underneath the top rim of the bin.
- It is not necessary to drill holes in the lid, which is closed tightly over the upper bin. as you will have to get sufficient air through the sides.
- You introductory set up the lower (sump) bin on bricks or blocks, permitting sufficient space to tap off the liquid from underneath it. Choose a shady emplacement for the worm farm (in a shed or garage, if you are subject to frosts).
- The second and third bins are “nested” within each other and dropped into the sump bin. To maintain a working space for the worms, and for accumulation of compost, you need a few spacers or packers of with regards to six to eight inches height, amidst the two upper bins and numerous littler packers of in regards to four inches in the lower (sump) bin. You may use wood blocks or sealed feed jars for packers. The packers likewise prevent the tapered worm bins from jamming together.
- To prevent “nasty bugs” from squeezing in amongst the bins, you will have to close (caulk) the little gap amongst them with strips of shade cloth, or mosquito netting.
Now you are ready to go into production. Space prevents us from giving totally elaborate notes here for the fine points of operating the system, such as choosing and feeding your worms, eradicating pests and preserving the worm farm etc – you may visit our internetlocation for this information. However, just make sure that you cover the following points: -
- Set up your worms in the top bin with a good (damp) fibrous bedding (or even shredded newspaper) and after a few days you will be ready to commence feeding in your kitchen scraps. Cover the feed with more bedding material to admonish pests and keep the lid closed.
- Make sure the worm farm is never permitted to arid out, by sprinkling water over the bedding periodically, if there is not already sufficient moisture coming from the feed scraps.
- When the top bin has been totally procreative for a while, the worms will multiply and compost will be begin accumulating from the worm castings. When the amount of compost is meaningful, stop putting feed into this bin and swap over the upper two bins by putting bin No 2 to the top of the stack, with bin No 1 now in the middle. Set up this new top bin with clean bedding, a little amount of the old castings and without delay commence feeding your kitchen scraps into it. The worms will naturally migrate upwards towards the new feed source, leaving the lower bin with only a few stragglers and ready for the harvesting of your compost within regarding three weeks after the swap.
- All you need to do is to keep repeating the procedure of alternating the top two bins on a regular basis, taking out the compost, whenever it accumulates, and tapping off the worm tea from time to time. Use both productions in your garden and grow delicious wholly organic vegetables and stunning roses. Sit back and get enjoyment from the fruit of your labours – your worms are doing most of the work anyway!
To see a elaborated diagram of this simple worm farm, as described, and a great deal of illustrative photos, you may visit our web website at http://www.working-worms.com/
Happy worming!
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